Brassiere

ABSTRACT

A brassiere includes a first wing and a second wing, a closure including a first closure portion on a first end of the first wing, and a second closure portion on a first end of the second wing; a pair of cups including a first cup connected to the second end of the first wing, and a second cup connected to the second end of the second wing; each cup including an inner contour shaped with an inner apex matching a breast to receive the breast in a natural bust point position, and an outer contour having a size larger than the inner contour and shaped with an outer apex spaced medially from the inner apex, and filling material between the inner contour and the outer contour; a gore connected between the first cup and the second cup; and a pair of straps including a first strap connected to the first cup and the first wing, and a second strap connected to the second cup and the second wing.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

The instant application is a continuation of U.S. Ser. No. 13/839,566filed on Mar. 15, 2013, which application claims the benefit of priorityof U.S. provisional application No. 61/733,192, filed Dec. 4, 2012, thedisclosures of each of which are hereby expressly incorporated byreference hereto in their entireties.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention

The invention relates to the field of brassieres, particularly to thefield of brassieres for smaller sizes/immovable breasts.

2. Description of Related Art

Generally, brassieres for smaller sizes/immovable breasts merely scaledown from the larger sizes, without taking into account the basicdifferences between smaller size and immovable breasts and larger sizependulous breasts. Smaller size breasts are immovable.

In this regard, smaller/immovable size breasts do not project downwardlyand outwardly, as do larger sized breasts. Smaller/immovable breasts donot need to be supported in the same manner since the smaller/immovablebreasts are not pendulous as are the larger natural breasts. Current bracups project forward, in an attempt to push the breast tissue up, in aforward direction, and towards each other to create cleavage.

By scaling from a C cup to a smaller size cup, as is presently done inthe industry, the volume is presumed to be less and the boundary ispresumed to be smaller.

In the prior art brassieres, the cups are positioned in the wrong placeand do not function properly. In particular, the cups are too closetogether, and the gore cannot touch the body.

U.S. Pat. No. 4,519,137 to O'Boyle et al. discloses a brassiere. Thepatent describes the problems small busted women have with industry brasand grading. In the Background of the invention, O'Boyle et al.describes the problems with brassiere sizing in the art. In particular,O'Boyle et al. teaches that brassieres are produced in standard sizesbased upon the around the body dimension of the wearer, and a cup volumedesignation. In the United States, the body measurement is stated ininches and is divided into two inch increments e.g. 30, 32, 34, 36, 38.Cup volume is referred to by the letters of the alphabet beginning at AAand progressing to A, B, C, D and DD with AA being the smallest volumesize. When a brassiere style is in development, it is initially fittedto a particular size. The size customarily used is size 34B, because itis considered to be representative of the most commonly worn size. Amaster pattern for each of the major brassiere components is developedfrom this size 34B prototype. This master pattern is then used in makinga pattern for other sizes, which is called grading. The acceptedindustry practice is to grade from the size 34B to smaller volumecapacity cup sizes (size 34A) to reduce on a proportional basis both thedepth of the breast receiving cup and the entire perimeter of the breastreceiving cup. By proportionally reducing the entire circumferentialperimeter of the cup, the remaining body encircling portions arerequired to be elongated so that the around the body fit could beachieved. The reduction in the circumference of the cup perimeter on aproportional basis also results in the lower edge of the cup beingpositioned upon the chest wall in the size 34A brassiere differentlythan in a size 34B brassiere of like styling. While dissatisfaction withfit is generally known for A and AA cup wearers, only limited successhas been achieved in correcting the problem.

To determine sizing, it is generally accepted in the industry todetermine size as a function of the diaphragm dimension, the around thebody chest dimension and the bust dimension. The accepted industrymeasurements include two basic around the body measurements, thediaphragm measurement which determines the enumerated brassiere size(which is taken around the body below the breasts), and the body chestdimension which is taken around the body along the high points (areola)of the breasts. In general, cup volume is determined by computing thebust size based upon the difference in measurement between the chestmeasurement and the bust measurement. For example, the following may beused: if the bust is up to ½ inch larger then than the chest, the cupsize is AA; if the bust is over ½ inch to 1½ inches larger than thechest, the cup size is A; and if the bust is over 1½ inches and up to 2½inches larger than the chest, the cup size is B.

Accordingly, the prior art patents still exhibit numerous disadvantagesand problems for providing a correct fitting and correct lookingbrassiere for the smaller sizes.

The invention recognizes the deficiencies in the prior art practices andgrading from size B cup to a size A cup was inappropriate. Proportionalreduction resulted in a brassiere in which the cups and sides were notoptionally positioned on the body. As a result of the cup perimeterbeing reduced in all dimensions a longer body encircling member isrequired to compensate for the around the body length not taken up bythe breast receiving cups. This mispositions the cups and side panels.For example, the side panel instead of being positioned along the turnof the body (that is where the rib cage curves toward the back of theanatomy) extends along the front of the body.

Further, a problem with industry grading is that it assumes by gradingfrom larger sizes that rib cage circumference decreases with less tissuevolume. This is not true. Because of cross grading the industry assumesa larger cup size for a larger rib cage circumference. For example, fora rib cage circumference of 36 inches, the industry assumes a larger cupsize than for a rib cage circumference of 34 inches. This is notnecessarily correct. The solution for this patent is a grading system tokeep the lower measurement of the cup on the band the same as for largersizes. The patent though still reduces the cup according to standardgrade rules for the rest of the cup. Once again, the prior artincorrectly assumes that if there is less volume there must be a smallercup diameter.

U.S. Pat. No. 6,746,306 to Brothers describes a post-operative bilateralaugmentation brassiere. The patent describes the problem of the centerfront connector between the cups not being wide enough for proper fit.The Brothers patent discusses the problem of manipulating a relativelysmaller base diameter on the chest wall, and describes how industry brasdon't fit properly and therefore don't work according to theirengineering. U.S. Pat. No. 6,746,306 to Brothers discloses apostoperative bilateral augmentation mammoplasty brassiere. The patentdescribes the natural shape of a woman's breast prior to a bilateralaugmentation mammoplasty as having a “teardrop” profile. The shape ofthe inframammary (under the breast) fold of the natural breast has theshape of a flattened semi-circle, which flattened semicircle fold isrepresentative of the shape of the similarly shaped underwires used inconstructing brassieres. The shape of the cups of conventionalbrassieres are typically conical. A conically shaped brassiere cup doesnot comfortably accommodate the hemispherical shape of the augmentedbreast formed by the underlying breast implant. Typically, the augmentedbreast does not fill out the “tip” of the cone, nor is the bust pointsupported. Most known types of brassieres do not provide for theaugmented breast shape and related chest wall relationships or theadditional support required by a woman with augmented breasts. Thetypical augmented breast has a somewhat hemishpherical shape and aconvex downslope extending from below the clavicle to the nipple, and arelatively smaller base diameter on the chest wall when compared to anatural breast of equal volume. This is the reason many women withaugmented breasts have a wide cleavage or medial distance between thebreasts. The bust point, or nipple also has a greater anteriorprojection than that of a natural breast, and the inframammary fold isnow a true semicircle in accordance with the circular shape of the roundbreast implant. In conventionally constructed brassieres, the centerfront connector between the cups also is not wide enough for proper fitwith augmented breasts. The connector typically is raised off the chestwall thus diminishing the brassieres cantilevered support system. Thebrassiere cups and breasts are thus forced medially toward center front.Consequently, the cups and underwires are distorted, the cleavage isdeepened and the brassiere appears unattractive and too tight. Thereshould be no space between the center front and the chest wall in aproperly fitted, comfortable and attractive brassiere that offers thefull benefit of a cantilevered support system. What is needed is acenter front connector that eliminates the above mentioned problems andensures proper fit, comfort and support for the breasts. The Brotherspatent solves these problems for the woman with augmented breasts bychanging the shape of the underwire, formed as a slightly lengthenedtrue semicircle with slight center front outward deflection and lateraloutward deflection, changing the shape of the cup in that it has anarcuate shape in both the vertical and horizontal directions forcreating a “spherical” cup, and changing the defined width of the centerfront connector, and its relationship to the center front tips of theunderwires of the brassiere allowing for better fit, comfort, appearanceand support.

The current assumption is that all breasts should be brought forward andtogether, therefore the cups should be brought in closer together. Theyare taking the smaller/immovable breast tissue from the width and tryingto put it in the front.

Smaller size breasts and augmented breasts, in the same vein, arerelatively immovable.

Additionally, in the prior art, the brassieres attempt to move immovablebreast tissue towards the center of the chest and to put the tissue intocups that have an incorrect position and projection, due to grading fromlarger sizes that have a position and projection that doesn't work forsmaller/immovable breasts. The industry also assumes by scaling from alarger size cup the smaller/immovable breasts require smaller cupdiameters and wires. This also is not correct.

When scaling and grading bras from larger sizes, as a result of thegrading, the industry brings smaller cups closer together (reducing thegore spacing) because that is the philosophy for larger breasts.Bringing cups closer together for the smaller/immovable breast placesthe underwire into the bust on the side, resulting in the underwiredigging into the breast tissue. This reduced spacing also doesn't allowthe gore to sit flat on the chest, which doesn't allow the engineeringto work properly. This doesn't work for smaller/immovable breasts thatare immovable.

In the prior art, the underwire is in the wrong place and has too smallof a diameter.

In the industry, the “bustpoint” is defined as the location of the cupin the cradle. When a manufacturer grades his pattern to createdifferent sizes for a bra style he moves the bust point slightly widerwith each cup size increase. According to the web site, “Her Room”, (B)cup bust points are ½″ further apart than (A) cups. Bust points get ¼″farther apart between (B) and (C) and (D) cups and ⅛″ farther apart withlarger cups. Also in the industry, “band size” is the ribcagemeasurement. “Cup size” is defined as breast projection.

It is a measurement of how far the breasts project from the chest wall.Each cup size denotes a 1″ increase in your body's circumference aroundyour bustline.

According to Brassiere Measurement as defined on the website Wikipedia,the term “cup” was not used to describe bras until 1916, andmanufacturers relied on stretchable cups to accommodate different sizedbreasts. In October 1932, the SH Camp and Company correlated the sizeand pendulousness of a woman's breast to letters of the alphabet Athrough D.

Accordingly, the (A) and (B) cups and the sizing for the (A) and (B)cups were developed for pendulous breasts, and have been designed assuch ever since.

Industry designs these bras to contain the weight and engineer theproduct to work with this weight and movement. An A size bust has noneof these features. An A size bust is basically 1″ larger than the ribcage and cannot be manipulated the way the larger sizes can. An A cupbreast also does not need the same support as the larger sizes, yet thecups produced are scaled down from a mass and weight bearing philosophy.

When the industry does consider the A customer the solution is either nocup at all, a padded cup which is a version of a push-up, a gel insertor a foam liner. The push up or cookie models are designed to add volumefrom under the bust for lift or uses slanted cups with padding to createcleavage. For the small A cup these solutions are uncomfortable andineffective because they don't take into account the problems of thelimited mass of the small bust or the location of the bust on the body.They are a solution based on the industry solution for a larger bust tocreate support, lift and cleavage. Using the C cup design and scaling itdown for the A bust places the brassiere in the wrong place on the body.The engineering for a larger bust design does not scale properly for thesmaller bust.

Standards for bra sizing in the United States and the world are asdescribed in the following text and charts.

Bra Standards (The Bra Book): Figuring out proper cup size is not easy.It is calculated in relation to band size. The size of an A cup, i.e.,the volume an A cup holds, changes depending on the band size. An A cupon a 32 band is not the same as an A cup on a 34 band, and so on. Justbecause a B is thought to be smaller than a C does not mean it actuallyis. A B cup is just smaller than a C on the same band size. The snuggerband size decreases the width and depth of the cup which means the 34C,while smaller than the 36C, actually holds the same volume of breasttissue as the 36B. A 38A compared to a 34A, the cup will be obviouslybigger. But if you compare a 38A with a 34D, the cups will be muchcloser in size.

Step 1: Band Size: First wrap the tape measure around the ribcage justbelow the bust and take the measurement. Since bra band sizes are evennumbers, round up to the nearest even number. For example if the measureis 31 inches, round up to 32. The most common way of fitting advisesadding 4 inches to this number. Some fitters advise to add only 2 inchesto their rounded up ribcage measurement. So if the measure is 30 inches,the wearer is likely a 32 band. Some fitting methods combine these two,advising that if the ribcage measurement is 32 or below, then add 4inches and if it's 34 or above add only 2 inches. Still other fitterswill advise not to add any additional inches at all, which does work forsome women.

Step 2: Cup Size: Wrap the tape measure around the fullest part of thebust. Then subtract the band size from this number and use thedifference in inches to calculate the cup size using the chart. Forexample, if the bust measurement is an inch larger than the band size,the cup size will most likely be an A. If the bust measurement is twoinches larger than the band size, the cup size will most likely be a B.

CHART 1 U.S. Difference: Bust measurement Cup Minus band size Size Lessthan 1″ AA   1″ A   2″ B   3″ C   4″ D   5″ DD/E   6″ DDD/F   7″ G  7.5″GG   8″ G, H   9″ H, I  10″ H, I, J  11″ HH 11.5″-13″ I   13″-15.5″ J15.5″-17″ K, JJ

International Sizing: Bra-Band Sizing

CHART 2 USA UK EURO French Italian Australian 28 28 30 30 — 32 32 70 851 10 34 34 75 90 2 12 36 36 80 95 3 14 38 38 85 100 4 16 40 40 90 105 518 42 42 44 44 46 46 48 48 50 50 52 52 54 54 56 56

International Sizing: Bra-Cup Sizing

CHART 3 USA UK EURO French Italian Australian AA AA AA AA A A A A A A BB B B B or none B C C C C C C D D D D D D DD/E DD E E DD DD DDD/F E F FE E G FF F F H FF FF I G G J GG GG K H HH L HH M J J N JJ JJ

According to Wikipedia, most bras are designed to be form fitting and tolift the breasts off the chest wall if they sag and to restrain theirmovement. Bra designers and manufacturers originally produced bras thatwere purely functional and gradually added elements to improve thedesign, but they have now largely shifted from functionality to fashion.Manufacturers' standards and sizes vary widely, making it difficult forwomen to find a bra that fits. Bra measurement procedures conflict withone another. Even professional bra fitters disagree on the correct sizefor the same woman. Women's breasts vary widely in size and shape; mostare asymmetric to a degree and can change from month to month dependingon the menstrual cycle, pregnancy, or weight gain or loss. As a result,from 75-80% of women wear the incorrect bras size.

A bra usually consists of a cup for each breast, a center panel (thegore), a band running around the torso under the bust, and shoulderstraps.

There are different sizing systems in different countries. Most use thechest circumference measurement system and cup sizes A, B, C, etc., butthere as some significant differences. Most bras available usually comein 36 sizes, but bra labeling systems used around the world are at timemisleading and confusing. Cup and band sizes vary around the world. Forexample, must women assume that a B cup on a 34 band is the same size asa B cup on a 36 band. In fact, bra cup size is relative to the bandsize, as the actual volume of a woman's breast changes with thedimension of her chest. In countries that have adopted the Europeandress size standard, the torso is measured in centimeters and rounded tothe nearest multiple of 5 cm.

Bra designers liken designing a bra to building a bridge because similarforces are at work. As a bridge is affected by gravity and horizontalforces, forces affecting a bra's design include gravity and sometimestangential forces created when a woman runs or turns her body.

The “pencil test”, developed by Ann Landers, has been promoted as acriterion to determine whether a girl should start wearing a bra. Apencil is placed under the breast, and if it stays in place by itself,then wearing a bra is recommended; if it falls to the ground, it is not.This is illustrative of the pendulousness of larger breasts.

Many problems, including health problems, are associated with poorlyfitting bras. Finding the correct fit can be very difficult for manywomen. Studies also show that the current system of bra sizing is quiteinadequate. Larger breasted women tend to wear bras that are too small,and smaller breasted women tend to wear bras that are too big.

It is commonly accepted that sagging occurs because a breast's normalanatomical support is inadequate, especially in women with largerbreasts. The bra is worn to provide artificial lift, based on thepresumption that the breasts cannot support themselves. Frequently, Acup women are more comfortable without a bra than with a bra.

According to Eve's Apples, the traditional bra measuring system ofadding 4-5 inches on the band doesn't work on small busted women,leaving most without an accurate bra size and some without a size atall. The number one fix for women in the wrong bra size is to go up acup size and down a band size. The same is true for small busted women.Due to the inaccurate results in traditional bra measuring and thevariety of small bust shapes, they have altered the traditional brameasurement system to best fit small busts.

The Individual Breast Measurement system helps women who are in betweensizes or have wide set breasts. It will tell a woman if she needs alarger cup size due to breast shape. This is a system in which eachbreast is individually measured from the breast bone across the breastand to the place where the breast tissue ends on the side of the body.

A woman's breast tissue affects the way a bra fits. There are threetypes of breast tissue including shallow, medium, and full. There arealso differences in breast placement including narrow breasts, centeredbreasts, and wide set breasts. All of the differences affect the fit ofthe bra. There are myths regarding bras for the small breasted womanthat women with small breasts don't need a bra, and that women withsmall breasts must wear an A cup. These are not true.

According to Her Room, when selecting a bra, it is important to knowthat a cup size on one band size is not equal to the same cup size onanother band size. When a manufacturer grades his patterns to createdifferent sizes for a bra style, he moves the bust points slightly widerwith each cup size increase. B cup bust points are ½″ farther apart thanA cups. Bust points get ¼″ farther apart between B, C, and D cups, and⅛″ farther apart with larger cup sizes.

An element of the proper fitting bra is the center panel, or gore. It isbest if the center panel between the cups sits firmly against yourchest.

For underwire bras, each band size has a pre-determined breast diameterbuilt into it in the form of an underwire. Changing your band size canchange the underwire diameter. It is also a fact that the same sizeunderwire is used in different cup sizes-the underwire in a 36C is thesame underwire used in a 34D and a 38B cup size. Thus, when you go up aband size and down a cup size, you will have the same fitting cupdiameter (the same wire will be used) but a larger band. The diameterincrease between standard underwire sizes is approximately ⅜″. Astandard underwire's length increase between sizes is approximately ⅝″.

According to Lula Lu, as the band size goes up, so does the cup size dueto how bra cups are graded. For example, the 36AA cup is larger than a34AA cup and a 34AA cup is larger than a 32AA cup. Additionally,manufacturers normally use a B or C cup for their bra designs and an Acup is usually scaled down from either the B or C cup used in thedesigns. Thus, the A cup may not be a true A cup and can result in apoor fit for smaller cup women.

According to How To Make a Bra, by Mark Garbarczyk, when a designerproduces a new bra, the prototype is made to a core size. This prototypeis then “graded” (enlarged or reduced) to produce the other sizes. Forsize/band grading, the standard step increase in band size is 2″, whichtakes a 34B to a 36A, for example. The underband will increase by 2″, aquarter of that increase must be placed in each half cradle and wing.For cup grading, to get from 34B to 34C, for example, the underbandlength remains the same, the cradle must increase to provide the largercup size, but the wing must get smaller to maintain the underbandlength, and the cup section is graded one size larger. The gradingprinciples used currently in the industry are as follows. Cup Grading:to increase the cup volume, the cradle of the bra must also increase toaccommodate the increase in cup size and the wing must be reduced tomaintain the band size. Band Grading: to increase the size of the band,but maintain the sup/cradle size, combined with cup grading. CrossGrading: to use the cups and cradle of one size as the cups and cradleof another size bra.

According to Wikipedia, bra sizes consisting of a number indicating theband size and a letter indicating the cup size became popular by the1940's. The shape, size, symmetry, and spacing of women's breasts vary,the breasts may have been augmented, the breasts may be tubular inshape, or may sag. Manufacturing standards and sizes vary. All of whichcontribute to poorly fitting bras.

U.S. Pat. No. 8,123,589 to Chapman discloses a bra size grading system.In the Summary section, Chapman addresses the problems with industrygrading. In the current industry, grading assumes that everything getsreduced with smaller cup sizes. This is incorrect, and by doing so, doesnot put the cup in the correct position on the body.

The website Beauty Lies Beneath includes the following European sizechart:

Cm 2 IT EU FR UK US CUP B CUP C 63-67 1 65 80 30 xs 79-81 81-83 68-72 270 85 32 s 84-86 86-8  73-77 3 75 90 34 m 89-91 90-93

Bra Band size:

USA Italy 30 1 32 2 34 3 36 4 38 5

The above European chart shows that if you measure at 34″, the B cup is89-91 and the C cup is 90-93.

The website called 85B includes an international bra size calculator. Itmeasures:

-   -   (1) “below the breast” band size;    -   (2) “around the breasts and back” (bust size); and    -   (3) “above the breasts” (above bust size).        International variance and equivalent sizes:

It is common for manufacturers of any country to attach size labels totheir garments which quote their equivalent sizes in a number ofdifferent countries. Unfortunately, these are often inaccurate. Anexample may help explain the problem. A bra made in Europe whichcorresponds to the European size 75B, for instance, will most probablybe labeled as 34B (USA) and 34B (UK) and, as the method of calculationfor cup size differ in these countries, it is possible that the physicalsize of the cup may differ also. In some cases the band size may alsodiffer.

In order to counteract this effect, the 85B Bra size calculatorcalculates the result for each national standard separately using thecorrect method for each.

Entering these measurements in their respective fields of the 85B Brasize calculator:

-   -   1. Band size: 30    -   2. Bust size: 36    -   3. Above bust: 34

Calculated, the US and UK sizes are shown as 34B but the European sizeis 75C and not 75B, as may have been expected. The calculator convertedthe inch measurements to centimeters and then calculated the Europeansize according to standard EN 13402. At the same time it calculated theUS sizing using the standard method and the UK size with the method usedin the UK.

European clothes sizes follow the European Standard EN13402. The 85B Brasix calculator adheres to this standard.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed to an undergarment, which addressesthe problems existing in the prior art, discussed above.

In order to solve the disadvantages and shortcomings in the prior art,the present invention keeps everything the same on the outside as a 34Bfor a 34A, except the projection. The present invention cannot be gradedfrom a standard. A 34B diameter is used on the outside of the cup and,in order to do that, a fill is created inside to replace the breasttissue of a 34B that is missing to hold up the larger diameter of thecup.

The present invention provides the correct fit for the smaller sizes bypositioning the cups wider apart to accommodate the wider spread andimmovable breast tissue.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

The above and other objects, features and advantages of the presentinvention will be made apparent from the following description of thepreferred embodiments, given as nonlimiting examples, with reference tothe accompanying drawings in which:

FIG. 1 is a front perspective view of a brassiere according to anembodiment of the present invention, showing an inside view of thebrassiere;

FIG. 2 is a front perspective view of a brassiere according to anembodiment of the present invention, showing an outside view of thebrassiere;

FIG. 3 is a front view of a brassier according to an embodiment of thepresent invention;

FIG. 4 is a front view of a prior art brassiere;

FIG. 5 is a front view of a brassiere according to an embodiment of thepresent invention, showing an outside view of the brassiere;

FIG. 6 is a rear view of a brassiere according to the embodiment of FIG.5, showing an inside view of the brassiere;

FIG. 7 is a front view of a brassiere according to another embodiment ofthe present invention, showing an outside view of the brassiere;

FIG. 8 is rear view of a brassiere according to the embodiment of FIG.7, showing an inside view of the brassiere;

FIG. 9 is a front view of a brassiere according to another embodiment ofthe present invention, showing an outside view of the brassiere;

FIG. 10 is a rear view of a brassiere according to the embodiment ofFIG. 9, showing an inside view of the brassiere;

FIG. 11 is schematic diagram of larger size pendulous breasts;

FIG. 12 is a schematic diagram of smaller size breasts, showing a widebreast point spread;

FIG. 13 is an schematic diagram of the brassiere of the inventionshowing the outside cup shape, and the location of the cup outer apexspaced medially from the inner cup apex and the breast point;

FIG. 14 is a schematic diagram of the brassiere of the invention showingthe inside cup shape, and the location of the cup outer apex spacedmedially from the inner cup apex and the breast point;

FIG. 15 is a schematic diagram of larger size pendulous breasts in anatural position and showing a superimposed brassiere;

FIG. 16 is a schematic diagram of larger size pendulous breastscontained in a brassiere, showing that the breast points have been movedtoward each other for the breast to be contained in the brassiere;

FIG. 17 is a schematic diagram of larger size pendulous breasts in anatural position and showing a superimposed brassiere, showing thelocation of the cup apex spaced medially from the location of naturalposition of the breast points;

FIG. 18 is a schematic diagram of smaller size breasts and showing asuperimposed incorrectly fitting industry graded brassiere scaled from Cto A, and showing of the cup apex spaced medially from the location ofthe natural position of the breasts; and

FIG. 19 is a schematic diagram of larger size pendulous breasts in anatural position and showing a superimposed brassiere, showing the bustpoint spread of the natural position.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed to an undergarment, and moreparticularly to a brassiere.

As shown in FIG. 3, the brassiere 1 includes first and second wings,each wing including a first end and a second end, a closure 3 includinga first closure portion on the first end of the first wing, and a secondclosure portion on the first end of the second wing, a pair of cups 3, afirst cup connected to the second end of the first wing, and a secondcup connected to the second end of the second wing, a gore 4 connectedto each of the first cup and the second cup, between the first cup andthe second cup; and a pair of straps 5 including a first strap connectedto the first cup and the first wing, and a second strap connected to thesecond cup and the second wing.

As shown in FIG. 3, each cup 3 includes an inner contour shaped with aninner apex 7 substantially matching a breast to receive the breast in anatural bust point position, and an outer contour having a size largerthan the inner contour and shaped with an outer apex 8 spaced mediallyfrom the respective inner apex 7, and filling material provided betweenthe inner contour and the outer contour.

As shown in FIGS. 6 and 7, each cup 3 may include a pad 6 that extendslaterally to the midaxillary line of a brassiere wearer.

Breast tissue extends laterally to the mid-axillary line and medially tothe center of the chest. The mid-axillary line is considered theanatomic edge border of the breast. The breast root is the border of thebreast. In the brassiere of the invention, the cup extends to the borderof the breast (breast root), differing from the present industry sizingfor the smaller sizes, which does not extend the cup to the mid-axillaryline. Thus, the brassiere of the invention gives a fullness or theillusion of fullness because the cup extends laterally and medially tothe natural anatomic border of the breast. Thus, a more natural contourof the smaller breast is acknowledged and accommodated.

On a small-breasted woman, the lateral and medial edge of the breast isnot obvious. By scaling from a C cup to a smaller size cup, as ispresently done in the industry, the volume is presumed to be less andthe boundary is presumed to be smaller. However, this is not true. Thebrassiere of the invention takes into account that the actual boundariesof the breast root tissue are the same as for a larger breast, but thetotal breast tissue has a smaller volume.

Smaller sized bras cannot be scaled down from C bras because a pendulousbreast projects in a way that a smaller/immovable breast does not. Theshape of the breast and the total volume of a larger breast are verydifferent from the shape and total volume of a smaller/immovable breast.Larger breasts and smaller/immovable breasts do not fit into cups in thesame manner. Industry assumes they do.

Breast fullness is provided in the widthwise direction, both laterallyand medially, and not in a forwardly projecting direction. Breast tissueextends to the outer sides laterally under the armpit. Withsmaller/immovable breasts, there may not be any breast tissue extendingthis far in this direction.

The brassiere of the invention contains the breast with the cupextending further laterally, outwardly and inwardly, instead ofprojecting in the forward direction.

In the brassiere of the invention, the cups are spaced further apartthan in the prior art brassieres so that the gore touches the body andthe edges of the cups extend to the outer edges of the breasts. The goremust touch the body for the brassiere to operate and function properly.

The diameter of the breast is larger at the breast root than supposed bythe industry. In the brassiere of the invention, the cups (or wirelesscups) are further apart from each other, and the diameter of the arc ofthe wire (or cup) is larger than in the current bras.

A C cup is designed for pendulous breasts that are pushed together to becontained. This naturally creates cleavage. The pendulous breasts arealso lifted up to support the load. Industry bras are designed tosupport a load and manage movement, like a bridge. Yet, a small bustdoes not meet this criteria, and does not need a load supported ormovement managed.

The industry scales bras from larger sizes for smaller sizes from brasthat are designed to accommodate very different problems than those thatactually exist in the smaller/immovable size. In smaller/immovablesizes, there is no load to support, there is no volume to push togethercomfortably and there is no movement to manage. Industry bras liftbreasts that have volume up and together, as there is ample tissue tomanipulate. Smaller/immovable sizes do not have tissue to manipulate,yet industry bras for smaller/immovable sizes are graded from largersizes that are designed to do just that. In fact, it is not possible tomove a lesser volume breast in the same way that a larger volume breastcan be moved. The center gore (connector) should not be raised off thechest. The gore must contact the chest wall to work functionally.

The brassiere of the invention takes into account that breasts extendlaterally and medially. With smaller/immovable breasts, the width mustbe emphasized to give the illusion of maximum volume and also to keepthe smaller/immovable breast in the anatomically correct position. Ourfocus with the brassiere of the invention is anatomical correctness.Current bras for smaller/immovable sizes do not look right because theyare not in the anatomically correct position.

Bringing cups closer together does not work for smaller breasts, andbreasts that are immovable. The spacing between cups should be widerwhich is why we have developed a new system of measurement for thebrassiere for the smaller sizes and immovable breasts. We incorporatedthe spacing between the bust point location and the location of the cupson the band. By spreading out the cups and allowing the gore to sit flatagainst the chest wall the bra wings and cups are evenly distributed intension and allow the bra to sit comfortably on the body.

Industry push-up bras push tissue from the sides and move the tissue tothe cups. The brassiere of the invention positions the cups on thebreasts and fills in the deficits. This enables the cups (underwire,wireless etc.), gore, wings and straps to allow the design to workproperly in tension and engineering. The inside bra cups of thebrassiere of the invention remain laterally and medially outward wherethe breast tissue is. The fill fills in the deficits in the cup insteadof relying on tissue that doesn't move, or isn't there, insmaller/immovable breasts. We build the breast from out to in by usingfill instead of moving the breast.

Pendulous breasts fall down and to the side in their natural state.Industry takes them from the side, brings them to the center and liftsthem up. The brassiere of the invention extends the area of the breastroot by using a larger diameter for the cup than the standard diameterindustry grade. Instead of attempting to move breast tissue toward thecenter of the body, the brassiere of the invention goes the oppositeway. Breast tissue is not pushed forward. The breast tissue is containedand the lateral edge of the breast is redefined to its correct anatomicposition.

Fullness in lateral and medial positions provides that the bust is leftin its natural position. This is a much more comfortable position thantrying to move tissue where it cannot go. Instead of taking whatsmaller/immovable volume there is and trying to push it forward, we aremaximizing its appearance by filling out the breast laterally andmedially.

In the brassiere of the invention, we have emphasized the widthfullness, and not necessarily front projection fullness. In extendinglaterally and medially, the tissue deficits are enhanced (built up). Weenhance the lateral aspect to provide the natural curve in the naturalanatomy of the breast, and not the unnatural forward projection asindustry does. We defined the lateral and medial projection, which hasnot before been discussed or recognized, nor does the prior artrecognize its importance. The outside curve provides voluptuousnesswithout projection in the forward direction. The brassiere of theinvention thus includes a different way of approaching enhancement. Theassumption of the prior art bras is that to make the small breast orbreast look as big as possible, cleavage must be increased sincecleavage is an indication of volume. However, we are indicating thatthere are other indications of volume, including the outer lateral curvefor lateral fullness. Creating cleavage by pushing the breasts togetherisn't necessarily the desired goal. To increase the illusion offullness, outer lateral fullness and medial fullness must first beobtained, and then, if there is enough tissue, cleavage can be providednaturally.

The brassiere of the invention serves breasts that are immovable. Manysmall breast customers do not have ample tissue to move and manipulate.The brassiere of the invention leaves the breast in its natural positionand defines the anterior shape of the cup. We give the smaller/immovablecustomer a better shape because we extend the width of the breastdiameter and we sculpturally place the apex of the cup in the correctproportional place on the outside irrespective of the actual placementof the nipple (apex) inside the cup.

The brassiere of the invention contains the breast in a contoured cupand does not attempt to move the breast tissue. This is an improvementover the prior art brassieres that attempt to move tissue that isn'tthere or attempt to move tissue that does not move. In particular, thesmaller/immovable breast is not pendulous and does not include enoughweight that will hang down and out to the sides. The smaller/immovablesize breast does not act and react in the same ways as the largerbreast. Our cup is a smaller cup size on the inside (i.e. A cup) and alarger size cup on the outside (i.e. B cup). The invention provides abra that is anatomically correct.

The brassiere of the invention includes pads that extend laterally andmedially to the sides. The brassiere of the invention also includes padson the upper portion of the cup that extend higher than in the prior artto fill in the deficits of the smaller/immovable breast.

The brassiere of the invention is a bra cup designed specifically forthe smaller/immovable bust with an average cup size traditionally calledAAA, AA, A, and B. The brassiere was designed in response to the absenceof correct fitting and correct looking bras for the smaller/immovablesizes. Industry traditionally produces A cups scaled down from a C cupsize. The C cup is considered an average in which to scale up or downfrom, based on a full range of sizes. However, we have determined thatis ineffective to scale off of a C cup for an A cup. Larger sized brasare designed and engineered to carry busts with weight, volume, andmass. An A cup does not have weight, mass or volume, yet the cup isstill scaled down from a cup that was created and engineered to supportthese factors. Cup sizes C and larger have some degree, or a largedegree of mass, weight and volume. They can be moved and manipulated tobe positioned into the cups.

Industry designs these bras to contain the weight and engineer theproduct to work with this weight and movement. An A size bust has noneof these features. An A size bust is 1″ larger than the rib cage andcannot be manipulated the way the larger sizes can. An A cup breast alsodoes not need the same support as the larger sizes, yet the cupsproduced are scaled down from a mass and weight bearing philosophy.

The engineering for a brassiere for larger bust design does not scaleproperly for the smaller/immovable bust. The brassiere of the inventionfor an A cup was designed specifically for the small/immovable bust. Oneof the problems with a small bust is that there is no real volume so thebust points are relatively fixed.

The sizing for the bra is based on bust point measurements. Size A1 isbased on a bust point spread of 5″-6½″. Size A2 is based on a bust pointspread of 6½-8″. The bands are measured as standard sizing, i.e., 30″,32″, 34″, 36″.

The sizing of the present invention is based on proportion. The cups aremade up of an inside criteria and an outside criteria. Each criteria hasa separate function.

Our outside AA cup has an inside accommodation for a AAA volume and iscalled AAA.

Our outside A cup has an inside accommodation for a AA volume and iscalled AA.

Our outside B cup has an inside accommodation for an A volume and iscalled A.

Our outside C cup has an inside accommodation for a B volume and iscalled B.

Our outside AA double fill cup has an inside accommodation for a AAAvolume and is called AAA/A.

Our outside A double fill cup has an inside accommodation for a AAvolume and is called AA/B.

Our outside B double fill cup has an inside accommodation for an Avolume and is called A/C.

Our outside C double fill cup has an inside accommodation for a B volumeand is called B/D.

As shown in FIGS. 1, 3, 4, 6, and 7, the cup spacing, or gore, isdifferent from that in the prior art. Our cups are spaced wider apartthan industry standard to accommodate immovable tissue. This allows thecups to be properly positioned on the breasts. It also allows the goreto sit flat on the chest wall and allow the engineering of the bra towork properly. Our sizing recognizes the differences in bust pointlocation and is called 1, 2, and 3.

The sizes are listed below:

For band width: 26, 28, 30, 32″ Size 1: BUST POINT SPREAD 5″-6″ Size 2:BUST POINT SPREAD 6″-7″ Size 3: BUST POINT SPREAD 7″-8″

For band width: 34″ Size 1: BUST POINT SPREAD 5″-6½″ Size 2: BUST POINTSPREAD 6½″-8″

For band width: 36, 38″ Size 1: BUST POINT SPREAD 5″-6½″ Size 2: BUSTPOINT SPREAD 6½″-8″

The AA (AA inside/A outside) measures inside volume (<1″) highpointprojected from chest wall with inside fill to compensate for outsideradius cup equivalent to industry (A) breast root measurement underwireand our sculpted outside cup. The AA/B (AA inside/B outside) measuresinside volume (<1″) highpoint projected from chest wall with inside fillto compensate for outside radius cup equivalent to industry (B) breastroot measurement underwire, and inside fill equivalent to midway betweenan (A) and a (B) projected from chest wall and midway between an (A) anda (B) sculpted outside cup.

The A (A inside/B outside) measures inside volume (1″) highpointprojected from chest wall with inside fill to compensate for outsideradius cup equivalent to industry (B) breast root measurement underwireand our sculpted outside. The A/C (A inside/C outside) measures insidevolume (1″) highpoint projected from chest wall with inside fill tocompensate for outside radius cup equivalent to industry (C) breast rootmeasurement underwire, and inside fill equivalent to midway between a(B) and a (C) projected from chest wall and midway between a (B) and a(C) sculpted outside cup.

The B (B inside/C outside) measures inside volume (2″) highpointprojected from chest wall with inside fill to compensate for outsideradius cup equivalent to industry (C) breast root measurement underwireand our sculpted outside. The B/D (B inside/D outside) measures insidevolume (2″) highpoint projected from chest wall with inside fill tocompensate for outside radius cup equivalent to industry (D) breast rootmeasurement underwire, and inside fill equivalent to midway between a(C) and a (D) projected from chest wall and midway between a (C) and a(D) sculpted outside cup.

The industry assigns the (C) projection as 3″ from the chest wall and(B) projection as 2″ from the chest wall, the double fill A/C is about2½″-2¾″ projected from the chest wall as the projection of the fill isspread wider than industry. The AA/B double fill cup projects about1½″-1¾″ from the chest wall. The A/C double fill cup projects about2½″-2¾″ from the chest wall. The B/D double fill cup projects about3½″-3¾″ from the chest wall.

Sizing may be, but not limited to:

32AA1 32AA2 32AA3 32AA/B1 32AA/B2 32AA/B3 34AA2 34AA/B1 34AA/B2 36AA136AA2 36AA/B1 36AA/B2 38AA1 38AA2 38AA/B1 38AA/B2 32A1 32A2 32A3 32A/C132A/C2 32/C3 34A1 34A2 34A/C1 34A/C2 36A1 36A2 36A/C1 36A/C2 38A1 38A234AA1 38A/C1 38A/C2 32B1 32B2 32B3 32B/D1 32B/D2 32B/D3 34B1 34B2 34B/D134B/D2 36B1 36B2 36B/D1 36B/D2 38B1 38B2 38B/D1 38B/D2

For example, 32 is the ribcage measurement, measured according toindustry. AA is the breast tissue volume of (<1″) according to industrycalculation. 1 is the location of the bust point spacing. The grade ofthe outside cup will be based on the anatomical correct proportion ofthe breast based on the ribcage measurement. The grade of the inside cupwill be based on the amount of breast tissue volume and the amount offill required to support the outside cup grade.

The cups of the brassiere of the invention were also designed to fill inthe hollows and create the appearance of a fuller, wider heavier bust.The cups are a hybrid. That is, the cups are comprised of a B sized andsculpted outer cup with an A sized and sculpted inner cup. The inside issculpted and created to fill in the areas that the A bust is missing dueto its limited mass and weight and to hold up and fill out the largerouter shell of the cup.

The outside of the cup is sculpted to have a simulated look of aweighted bust and the apex of the bust is placed in a proper positionseparate and apart from the at rest position of the areola positioned inthe inside cup A. For example, the natural bust point spread of an Abust might be 7-8″. We designed the inside cup to be placed on the bustin its natural resting position inside and we designed the outside B cupto have the most desired B cup shape irrespective of the inside sittingposition and bust point spread. In other words, we created the outsidelook first, and then built the inside to properly accommodate the bust,and vice versa. See particularly FIG. 11.

Calculating cup volume and breast weight:

The average breast weighs about 0.5 kg (1.1 lb). Each breast contributesto about 4%-5% of the body fat.

The density of fatty tissue is more or less equal to 0.9 kg/1 for allwomen. The volume of a woman's individual breasts can vary. Bradesigners can give it the shape of a hemisphere or a hemi-spheroid byfitting it into a cup. If the bust is considered essentially a halfsphere, its volume V is determined by the following formula:

V=2πr ³/3

V=2.1×r ³

V=0.26×D ³

Where D is the diameter of the sphere and r is the radius of the sphere.

If the breast is shaped more like a spheroid, the designer might use theformula like the following:

V=0.26×D ² /b×h

Where b equals diameter of the hemispheroid's base and h equals theheight of the spheroid.

Other formulas can be derived as needed to design bras for differentlyshaped breasts. All of these formulas assume that the breasts conform tothe mentioned mathematical model.

Cups give a hemispherical shape to the breast, and underwires give shapeto the cups. So the curvature radius of the underwire is key todetermine volume and weight of the breast. The same underwires are usedfor the cups of sizes 36A, 34B, 32C, 30D, and etc., so these cups havethe same volume. The reference numbers of underwire sizes are based on aB cup bra, for example, underwire size 32 is for 32B cup (and 34A, 30C,. . . ). An underwire size 30 width has a curvature diameter of 3⅚=9.7cm and this diameter increases by ⅓ in=0.847 cm by size. The table belowshows volume calculations for some cups that can be found in ready towear large size shop.

Underwire Bra size Volume of size (US system) Cup Diameter one cupWeight 30 32A, 30B,  9.7 cm (3 ⅚ in) 240 cc (0.51 0.43 kg 28C US pt) 3234A, 32B, 10.6 cm (4 ⅙ in) 310 cc (0.66 0.56 kg 30C, 28D US pt) 34 36A,34B, 11.4 cm (4 ½ in) 390 cc (0.82 0.70 kg 32C, 30D US pt 36 38A, 36B,12.3 cm (4 ⅚ in) 480 cc (1.0 0.86 kg 34C, 32D US pt)

By using the above chart based on the volume of a 34A cup (310 cc) and a34B cup (390 cc) we are filling the invention with the equivalent ofabout 80 cc of foam which is the difference between the volume of astandard industry A cup and a standard industry B cup.

The cup diameter we are using is equivalent to a 34B (11.4 cm=4½ in)according to the above chart for our 34A bra which according to theabove chart industry uses 10.6 cm (4⅙ in).

We are using dimensions of a 34B cup for our A bras and filling in thedeficits in circumference and volume (lack of B volume) with foam. Thefoam is built up on the inside to fill in the breast tissue deficit, andsculpted on the outside to make the cup look like it has the weight andvolume of a B cup. We put the exterior bust point location on the centerline of what would have been a 34B cup and we made the appearance ofweight in the cup look like it is a 34B. We made what normally would bea 34B cup into an A cup using a B wire so there is more width in thewire on the body. The location that the wire sits on the body isintegral to a correct fit.

Industry bras shape the breast and manipulate tissue.

Our invention does not use the breast inside to affect the shape on theoutside.

From the website Beauty Lies Beneath, under the heading “Finding yourbra size”:

Standard Difference Cup Size 0″-½″ (1.3 cm) AA ½″-1″ (2.6 cm) A 1″-2″(5.1 cm) B 2″-3″ (7.6 cm) C

According to this chart, we use the difference between an A cup (2.6 cm)and a B cup (5.1 cm) to fill the inside of the B cup measurements we areusing for our A cup.

The brassiere of the invention was also designed to fill in the spacebetween the two bust points that is empty. To accomplish that, the cups,and cup diameter (underwire and wireless) are made wider than the actualA cup bust and in some styles the fabric was stretched between the cupsto give the illusion of volume where there isn't any. Another point thatwas addressed was creating an illusion of a fuller shape of the breastusing creative definition with stitching.

The goal of the brassiere of the invention is to maximize the look ofthe existing bust using fill inside around the side, and larger widersized cups outside, to create a comfortable and well-fitting bra for thesmall size by creating a counter force between the bust, the cups, andthe wings using foam to counter balance the cups and give the illusionof weight and mass. Special tension engineering was used to make the brafit comfortably without pressing the bust to the pads or the body. Andto give the A cup customer a wide range of designs accommodating theunique problems of a small bust i.e., bust point spread and breasts thatcannot be moved and positioned like larger breasts.

The brassiere of the invention also has a line of swim and exercise brastaking these same needs into account.

Due to a lack of weight in the smaller size breast we created acounterforce between the pad and the frame to simulate the feeling of acontained breast. The cup was designed to compensate for the missingmass of the breast. To do this we created a compensatory cup insidewhich we call variations of an A cup and sculpted a wider form similarto the B cup on the outside to include the look and feel of a weightedbust. The gravity of the A cup bust is absent, yet industry bras aredesigned to contain and support a weighted mass. Our bras work in theexact opposite of industry. We created the force in our pads to keep thebra close to the body as opposed to industry design using the body(bust) to counterforce the bra. Our engineering for the A bra takessomething that is basically weightless and creates a counterforce bydesigning the foam in the inner form to expand the width andcircumference of the bust. Industry bras are engineered forgravitational interaction yet for the A customer this gravity does notapply for the limited weight and mass. Scaling down from a C cup (whichindustry does) does not properly serve the A cup breast, which is verysmall and is neither pliable nor weighted.

The exercise Zero G Hybrid bra a/B AB b/B b/C is a breast shaper for thesmall bust. It is made to create the look and feel of weight and mass ofa B cup sized bust by combining an inner A cup and a uniquely sculptedouter cup B. The arc and bust point location on the outer cup wasdesigned to simulate the weight and mass of a B cup bust. The A cup onthe inside was designed to accommodate the actual A cup bust keeping itin its natural position and filling in the hollow spaces while allowingproper positioning of the placement of the aureole irrespective of thevisual location of the arc and bust point location on the B cupexterior. Thus, the hybrid brassiere of the invention is a combinationof two cup sizes. The inner cup contains the A cup bust, and the outercup is sculpted and sized to a B cup (as an example for that size).

The solution of the present brassiere is illustrated by the Europeansizing calculators and conversion charts. The solution of the presentbrassiere and sizing includes measurements that don't requirecalculations. Calculations can end up with the wrong measurement. Thereare no calculations: 34″ band; and 1″ breast projection equals 34A.There are no conversion of sizes, no subtracting as in the industry. Inthe present brassiere and sizing, measure the breasts around the breast(bust), and measure the rib cage under the bust. If the difference is1″, the size is an (A). Thus, a very simple determination of the sizefor a particular wearer.

Although the invention has been described with reference to severalexemplary embodiments, it is understood that the words that have beenused are words of description and illustration, rather than words oflimitation. Changes may be made within the purview of the appendedclaims, as presently stated and as amended, without departing from thescope and spirit of the invention in its aspects. Although the inventionhas been described with reference to particular means, materials andembodiments, the invention is not intended to be limited to theparticulars disclosed. Rather, the invention extends to all functionallyequivalent structures, methods, and uses such as are within the scope ofthe appended claims.

What is claimed is:
 1. A brassiere, comprising: a first wing and asecond wing, each wing including a first end and a second end; a closureincluding a first closure portion provided on the first end of the firstwing, and a second closure portion provided on the first end of thesecond wing; a pair of cups, a first cup connected to the second end ofthe first wing, and a second cup connected to the second end of thesecond wing; each cup including an inner contour shaped with an innerapex substantially matching a breast to receive the breast in a naturalbust point position, and an outer contour having a size larger than theinner contour and shaped with an outer apex spaced medially from therespective inner apex, and filling material provided between the innercontour and the outer contour; a gore connected to each of the first cupand the second cup, between the first cup and the second cup; and a pairof straps including a first strap connected to the first cup and thefirst wing, and a second strap connected to the second cup and thesecond wing.